The meseta refers to the long stretch of plains between Burgos and Leon (about 180km in total – more than 8 days of walking).

The weather can be changeable (although for us it has remained windy and stonkingly hot), the scenery is monotonous (fields of wheat, barley, lucerne and clods of earth) and the way follows Roman roads that are boringly straight.

Many pilgrims decide to take a bus and avoid most of this landscape – but we decided to take it on.

This picture is typical of the shade available on the meseta – long stretches of gravel path with very few places to refuel along the way.

It’s the first time I’ve bothered to put on my headphones and listen to music (Johnny Clegg and Savuka and a little bit of Jean Michel Jarre).

It isn’t all boring – these little oasis’s crop up just when you need them. And the other pilgrims you meet who are marching the same route make for a wonderful encouraging troupe.