What do you do after you’ve finished walking to the end of the world? Walk some more, naturally!

The walk from Fisterra to Muxía saw us head north 28.45km, and I’m so glad we have not got any more long walking days after this 😅.

We stayed up until midnight watching the sunset from a public yet little-visited beach near our hostel, drinking patxaran and enjoying the cooling sand under our feet.

Invariably this meant our early start was slightly sluggish… but we made fairly good time, leaving by 07:45! The hills came on fairly early, but provided nice views of the coast and back down into Fisterra.

By the 9km mark, we were ready for the usual morning sustenance of two 0% tostada beers to rehydrate us before slogging on until a lunchtime snack (chorizo, eggs, and chips is such a nice thing when done well).

More hills kept the feet tired all the way to the many-kilometres-long gravely downhill section all the way to Costa da Morte – literally “Coast of Death”, and – possibly true to its name, our feet were killing us towards the end. This coastal area received its name because – exposed directly to the Atlantic Ocean – there have been so many shipwrecks along its treacherous rocky shore.

To answer the question posed earlier – what does the Coast of Death smell like? Fennel. The aniseedy notes of fennel tea are pervasive on the walk into Muxía, which was a nice welcome present after the acrid and putrid stench of cow we’ve had over the last few days.

We’re sitting on the seafront enjoying some well-earned beers and watching the fishing boats being towed around and the seagulls dumpster diving for whatever their catch of the day is. In an hour or so, we’ll head next door to a really nice restaurant (foie gras on cecina – cured sirloin? Oh yes!) before heading back to bed for another early start – the 07:30 bus back to Santiago.